Le marché Edgar Quinet
Boulevard Edgar Quinet from rue du Départ to Square Delambre, 14th arr.
Wednesday 8am to 1:30pm; Saturday 8am to 1pm
(See pp. 178-180 in Markets of Paris, 2nd ed.)
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The boulevard Montparnasse is justly famous for cafés that were (and still are) favorite haunts of writers and other artists. Behind that busy boulevard a vibrant market is another good reason to draw you to this neighborhood in the 14th arrondissement. Every Saturday and Wednesday morning, a sumptuous array of foods spreads out for several blocks along boulevard Edgar Quinet.
The Montparnasse tower is the most visible landmark–impossible to miss and, some add, impossible to enjoy architecturally. But no matter. Keep your focus on the bounty that spreads before you on the market tables and you won’t be disappointed. Escargots Provençale stuffed with garlic and butter. Seasonal charcuterie and choucroute.
Bunches of asparagus and gariguette strawberries piled high announce springtime better than anything else. Loads of other fruits, vegetables, cheeses, oysters and fishes, meats, prepared foods, and tasty confections get bundled and passed into the hands of appreciative customers. On Sundays the same location is transformed into an entirely different market–arts and crafts.